The D.Va Hat!
My husband and I enjoy playing video games together to relax. One of my favorites at the moment is Overwatch. In the game, you pick from 25 different heroes each with their own set of abilities and skills. You have a team of 6 versus 6 and you work together to achieve a goal. I am oversimplifying it, but it is super fun and worth checking out. One of my favorite characters to play as is D.Va. She is a teenage professional video game player who rides around in a mech suit that shoots lasers and shields her team from damage. She is also just super cute! Her symbol is a bunny face with attitude. It was that bunny that I wanted highlighted in my D.Va hat!
Image on left: source
Image on right: source
A couple notes about the hat:
This project uses intarsia “in the round”
Since the color work is only on the front park of the hat and not worked all the way around, it would not make since to carry the pink and white colors using fair isle style knitting. Instead, you will actually work back and forth for the rows that use the chart. To accomplish this, I used the technique suggested by “O Hare There” at their blog post on intarsia in the round. When starting the first row with color work, you yarn over, work across, and at the end of the row you slip slip knit. Then turn to the wrong side, yarn over, work across, purl two together, and turn your work and repeat! It’s a really great way to do intarsia “in the round” and still have it look nice! There is going to be a column of your work that is not pretty stockinette stitch to match all the others. The D.Va hat pattern puts this column in the back of the hat and it actually looks pretty cool and intentional. My first attempt had it in the front right before starting the color work and it just wasn’t symmetrical and nice looking.
Working the color work
Be sure to catch the floats of the colored yarns over the 20 stitches like in fair-isle style, and then twist the first and last stitches of the colored yarn like in intarsia style. This will keep the knitting neat and without long long floats making the work pucker.
Reading the chart
The chart is completely symmetrical. That means you don’t have to read the knitting chart like a normal pattern (but you can if you want). Normally a chart is read from right to left when working the right side; it is read from left to right when working the wrong side. You can read it left to right for every row (or right to left, whatever you find makes the most sense!) The chart is only used for the 20 stitches specified in the directions as “K20 in chart” or “P20 in chart” and these stitches will be separated by place markers.
- US Size 4 needles (circular or double pointed needles)
- US Size 6 needles (circular or double pointed needles)
- Blue aran weight yarn (approximately 100 yards) – I used Vanna’s Choice in Colonial Blue
- White aran weight yarn (approximately 30 yards) – I used Vanna’s Choice in White
- Pink aran weight yarn (approximately 15 yards) – I used Loops & Threads Colorwheel in Strawberry
- Place markers
- Tapestry needle
- 20 stitches = 4 inches
- 27 rows = 4 inches
- CO= cast on
- PM= place marker
- K = knit
- P = purl
- YO= yarn over
- P2tog = purl two together
- SSK = slip slip knit
- * = repeat stitches inside *…*
1: Using size 4 needles, CO 96 stitches, PM and join in the round.
2: *K2, P2* repeat for 8 rows
3: Set up row–Switch to size 6 needles. K38, PM, K20, PM, K38
(the 20 stitches between the markers will be the 20 stitches of the chart)
4: Chart row 1: K38, K20 in chart, K38 to marker, then turn work inside out (turn over) to wrong side.
This is now when the intarsia “in the round” begins
5: Chart row 2 (WS): YO, P38, P20 in chart, P to last stitch, slip stitch, remove marker, place stitch back to left needle, P2tog (the last stitch with the YO from beginning of round). PM and turn work
6: Chart row 3 (RS): YO, K38, K20 in chart, K to last stitch, slip stitch, remove marker, place stitch back to left needle, SSK, PM and turn work
7: Repeat steps 5 and 6 eleven more times, finishing on row 24 (WS) of the chart.
Begin decreasing! Decrease rounds begin at 5″ from cast on edge. Row 25 will be the set up round to finish the back and forth intarsia.
8: Chart row 25 (RS): YO, *K10, K2tog, PM* 3 times, K2, remove marker, K8 in chart, K2tog, PM, K10 in chart, remove marker, K2tog, PM, *K10, K2tog, PM* 2 times, K10, slip two stitches to right needle, remove marker, place two stitches back to left needle, K3tog, PM (88 stitches remain)
9: Knit 1 round
10: *K9, K2tog* repeat (80 stitches remain)
11: Knit 1 round
12: *K8, K2tog* repeat (72 stitches remain)
13: Knit 1 round
14: *K7, K2tog* repeat (64 stitches remain)
15: Knit 1 round
16: *K6, K2tog* repeat (56 stitches remain)
17: Knit 1 round
18: *K5, K2tog* repeat (48 stitches remain)
19: Knit 1 round
20: *K4, K2tog* repeat (40 stitches remain)
21: Knit 1 round
22: *K3, K2tog* repeat (32 stitches remain)
23: *K2, K2tog* repeat (24 stitches remain)
24: *K1, K2tog* repeat (16 stitches remain)
25: *K2tog* repeat, removing markers as you go (8 stitches remain)
26: Cut yarn leaving at least 12 inches, thread on tapestry needle and weave through remaining 8 stitches. Go through the 8 stitches one more time for good luck, tighten the top of the hat and weave in all the ends!